Day 1 – July 31
White River Campground to Summerland // 7.4 miles
My friend, Madalyn, and I got through the gates near White River Ranger Station around 7:20am. They only let a few cars in after us before a line started to form at the front gate – we got in at the perfect time. We waited in line at the Ranger Station to get the permit. There were several groups in front of us trying to get walk up permits, so I was glad to already have a permit reserved. When I finally got to the front of the line, I was able to change my last camp from Mystic Camp to Granite Creek so that Adam, my boyfriend, and I would have a shorter last day.
Mount Rainier over the White River
Madalyn and I parked at White River campground, gathered all our stuff, and took our first steps on the Wonderland Trail! We left the campground heading south to cross the White River. Unfortunately, there was only a bridge over part of the river and it was flowing really fast. We could hear rocks thundering around beneath the water’s surface. It sounded very ominous and we did not want to risk injury minutes into a week long trip. We decided to take a detour along the road so we could walk over a car bridge instead of fording the river.
Wildflowers near Fryingpan Creek
The first part of the actual trail was relatively flat through the forest. There weren’t any views but it was really peaceful. We hiked along Fryingpan Creek, catching a glimpse of the river here and there until we finally crossed over it. After we crossed the creek, the wildflowers began to explode! There were so many of all different colors. In front of us, the mountain loomed large and powerful. We were already in awe of our surroundings.
We had a few switchbacks on the climb into Summerland, but we finally made it. We checked out all the campsites (only one was already taken) and decided on number 5. It is a large flat space with views of the mountain through the trees. Rain had been threatening all day, but finally started to pick up right after we pitched our tents.
“Dr. Seuss” flowers
I had lunch in my tent and organized my stuff. We finally got a break from the rain an hour later, so we went down to the creek to collect water. Even more wildflowers were blooming by the creek and in the meadow, including some “Dr. Seuss” flowers. I took a lot of photos. On our way back to camp, we noticed 2 of the 5 campsites were empty, which was strange considering it was a Saturday night in the middle of summer. We also ran into a park ranger who checked our permit.
Mount Rainier from Summerland
The rain started again right after we got back to our camp, confining us in our tents again. I realized I had a bit of cell service, so I texted Adam. The rain finally stopped after dinner so Madalyn and I were able to sit by the creek for a while and admire the view. I was feeling a little down, but being able to be out of the tent for a while really helped. I am truly happy to be out here and hope that I will be able to complete the full trail.
Day 2 – August 1
Summerland to Olallie Creek // 11.4 miles
Wow, today truly was a beautiful day! We left camp a little before 9am and began climbing towards Panhandle Gap, the highest point on the Wonderland Trail. The views were amazing all the way up in every direction. We saw cliffs, lakes, and marmots, and of course the mountain was front and center. It was a little hazy because of a nearby wildfire, but it was still breathtaking. The views were so amazing that we hardly noticed the climb and seemed to arrive at Panhandle Gap in no time at all. After admiring the valleys below us and the mountain above us, we began the descent to Indian Bar.
Hazy view on the climb to Panhandle Gap
The first part of the descent was really mellow. We could see down into the valley and there were a ton of wildflowers: magenta and orange Indian paintbrushes, purple lupine, Dr. Seuss flowers, and delicate white flowers. They were magnificent. After a bit, the descent got a lot steeper. Instead of gentle switchbacks, there were steep steps in the trail which made my knees scream. I could see the stone shelter at Indian Bar but it was so impossibly small.
Descent to Indian Bar
After what seemed like an eternity, we finally made it. Indian Bar is incredible. The Ohanapecosh River runs through it and gives life to so many wildflowers. There are also amazing views of the cliffs surrounding the valley. We took a long break for lunch to soak our feet in the river and enjoy the view.
Indian Bar
After lunch, we climbed out of Indian Bar towards the Cowlitz Divide. Every so often, I would look behind and see Mt. Rainier rising above the cliff walls at Indian Bar and higher into the sky. Part of me wished we could have done this section of trail in the other direction so we could hike towards the mountain instead of away from her.
Mount Rainier from the Cowlitz Divide
The Cowlitz Divide was incredibly beautiful. There were so many flowers and the mountain, now well above the valley, stood tall and magnificent above us. The view was a little muted from the smoke, but it was still amazing. As we began to descend, we saw a marmot family on some rocks! The baby was so cute! It truly is a wonderland out here. We finally dropped below the tree line and the bugs got really bad. We couldn’t really stop for breaks because they would swarm us. We finally got to the junction with the Eastside Loop and we headed south towards Olallie Creek Camp.
Magenta Indian paintbrush and purple lupine flowers
Olallie Creek was a nice campground. There was only one site still available when we got there, number 2. The green undergrowth and massive trees reminded us of the trails near North Bend. It felt like home. We set up camp and then waded in the creek to wash off some of the dirt of the day.
Then we had dinner under Madalyn’s bug net. I’m glad she brought that so we could eat outside our tents. Tomorrow, Madalyn is getting picked up at Box Canyon, so I will be alone for a few days until I meet up with Adam.
Day 3 – August 2
Olallie Creek to Paradise River // 15.1 miles
In the forest above Nickel Creek
We woke up at 5am cause we were supposed to meet Madalyn’s ride at Box Canyon at 7am. It took us over an hour to pack up camp and then we had the climb back up to the Wonderland Trail junction. The bugs were so bad at the junction that I actually put on my head net for the first time and kept it on for a while as we began to descend towards Nickel Creek.
Mount Rainier from Box Canyon
The descent to Nickel Creek was nice – lots of switchbacks. We made good time and got to Box Canyon about 8:15am where Madalyn’s ride was waiting. After they left, I had breakfast at Box Canyon and admired the view of the mountain. It was still a little hazy, but seemed better than the previous two days.
Box Canyon to Maple Creek was very peaceful. It was a flat, mild section through the vibrant forest. The sun was streaming through the trees and I could smell the faint scent of pine trees in the air. I got water at Maple Creek before beginning the climb out of Stevens Canyon. I was hoping to make it to Reflection Lakes for lunch around noon.
Stevens Canyon
Unfortunately, the trail had other plans. The climb was so long. There were parts of the trail that were overgrown with berry bushes. I hate trails like that because they are often hot and muggy since they do not provide much shade from the hot sun above. I just had to push through. I made it to the infamous Stevens Canyon washout area and was able to cross it. It was a little narrow and sketchy but I took my time. Soon after, I reached Martha Falls and let the cool mist from the falls wash over me. I considered stopping there for lunch, but decided to push to Reflection Lakes since it was only 2 miles away at that point.
Martha Falls
It was the longest 2 miles of my life. I was absolutely dripping in sweat. My shorts were soaked and the sweat was dripping down the back of my legs. It was completely miserable. After completing the trail, I decided that this was the worst climb of the entire 100 mile journey.
I finally made it to Reflection Lakes around 1:30pm. Since Reflection Lakes is accessible by car, there were lots of day hikers in the area. I’d been alone all morning since Madalyn left, so it felt nice to be around other people. I enjoyed my lunch and admired the view of the mountain reflecting in the still lake waters.
Reflection Lakes
After a 40 min break, I was ready to make the final 2 mile descent to Paradise River camp. The trail was in great shape and had moderate switchbacks so I made good time. I even took a short detour to Narada Falls! It was very impressive!
I got to camp and there was only one open site left, number 3. Paradise River Camp isn’t great. Apparently, a flood destroyed this camp a while ago and it shows. There are many downed and broken tree branches everywhere. But camp is camp I guess.
Narada Falls
I set up my tent and then hiked a short distance back down to Paradise River to get water. I also soaked my feet which felt really good after the long day. After that, I cooked dinner at my tent. While I ate, I invited the couple camped at site 2 to join me. It was nice to chat with them for a while.
I feel nervous about camping alone for the next few days. I’m also nervous about Day 5 which is a 13 mile day. Tomorrow should be good at least. I’m getting my food at Longmire and then heading to Devil’s Dream. It should be an easier day and some of the people camped here tonight will also be at Devil’s Dream tomorrow. I’m just trying to tell myself that I can do solo things. And I’m not even truly alone right now, there are other people camped nearby. I knew this trail would not be easy. I just hope I’m strong enough to handle it.
